Over the pass

Relaxing at Dumpling Hut, enjoying the company of some very persistent sandflies! Utterly fucking revolting insect repellent which I foolishly put on various parts of my body is now getting on everything. I’ve washed my hands multiple times but it somehow still clings on!

A remarkable day crossing the Mackinnon Pass. Perfectly clear all day. Set off around 9am and got here, Dumpling Hut, at 5pm, so once again, a fair bit of dawdling. Climb up from Mintaro Hut through the trees until we broke through into the alpine zone. Views tremendous. Not sure what else to write – this walk exceeds my expectations at every turn. That comment re. the “region of the perpendicular” is the best I’ve found. Was a bit of a slog towards the end today and I think we’re both pretty knackered. I’ve a couple of blisters just starting which I’ll have to attend to.

Should note down the bus driver Bruce’s story from the other day about his friend the avalanche expert in Te Anau, who would at times be called on to go up in a helicopter and throw a sack of explosives (ammonium nitrate) out of the helicopter at a strategic point, to force an avalanche and prevent things building up too much. One time, though, he threw out the bag and it got caught on the skid of the helicopter. The pilot had to dive steeply, upon which it slid off, fell into the bush and exploded. Pilot very famous in New Zealand but I didn’t note down his name. The Maori name for Milford Sound, Piopiotahi, means the lonely or solitary thrush. Very lonely these days because it was wiped out by European invasion/settlement and hasn’t been seen since 1905.

We had lunch at the cairn on the pass. Quite a few guided walkers around. Made pudding out of milk, nutella and broken-up bread – actually not terrible! Views stupendous, impossible to capture with words or photos. Walk down was pretty tough on the knees, took it slowly. One cliff at the top was very vertigo-inducing – could see Quintin Lodge far, far below. Steve and I haven’t been chatting as much today – have both been enjoying the surroundings. I’m starving! Dinner soon. I miss Nadia and Cara so much I feel like I could almost cry. Like a huge part of my heart is shut off at the moment.